If there’s one place in St. Petersburg that brings together imperial glory, political intrigue, architectural brilliance, and the very foundation of the city itself, it’s the Peter and Paul Fortress. Perched on Zayachy (Hare) Island, this formidable citadel is not only the oldest structure in St. Petersburg but also one of the most historically significant landmarks in all of Russia.
Whether you’re a history buff, an architecture lover, or just a curious traveler looking to connect with the soul of the city, the Peter and Paul Fortress offers a rare glimpse into the turbulent and transformative centuries of Russian history.
The Birth of a Fortress—and a City
The story of the fortress begins with one man: Peter I of Russia, better known as Peter the Great. In 1703, during the Great Northern War with Sweden, Peter seized control of the Neva River delta—an area of marshland long-contested for its strategic access to the Baltic Sea.
Peter envisioned a modern European city, a forward-looking capital that would replace Moscow as the imperial seat of power. To protect this new stronghold from potential Swedish counterattacks, he commissioned the construction of a star-shaped fortress on Zayachy Island. The foundation stone was laid on May 27, 1703, a date that is now celebrated as the official founding day of St. Petersburg.
Although designed by Swiss-Italian architect Domenico Trezzini, who would later leave his mark all over the city, the original earthwork fortifications were soon replaced by stone bastions. Ironically, the Swedes never launched an attack, so the fortress never saw military action—but its role in Russian history was just beginning.
From Fortress to Political Prison
What began as a military fort quickly evolved into something far darker: a political prison. From the early 18th century, the Peter and Paul Fortress became the Tsars’ preferred detention site for dissenters, rebels, writers, and political thinkers.
Among its most famous inmates were:
- Tsarevich Alexei, Peter the Great’s own son, accused of treason and tortured to death in 1718.
- Fyodor Dostoevsky, imprisoned here before being exiled to Siberia.
- Alexander Ulyanov, the older brother of Vladimir Lenin, executed after a failed assassination attempt on Tsar Alexander III.
- Revolutionary figures like Leon Trotsky, Gorky, and members of the Decembrist uprising also passed through its cells.
The most notorious part of the prison is the Trubetskoy Bastion, which today operates as a museum. Inside, you can step into the very cells where prisoners were kept in solitary confinement. The dim light, thick walls, and cold stone floors still carry the oppressive atmosphere of the Tsarist penal system.
The Peter and Paul Cathedral: Final Resting Place of the Romanovs
At the heart of the fortress lies the Peter and Paul Cathedral, a masterpiece of early Petrine Baroque architecture, completed in 1733. The design, once again by Domenico Trezzini, broke with traditional Russian Orthodox styles by incorporating Western European influences, a key goal of Peter’s modernization program.
Its 122.5-meter spire was, for many years, the tallest structure in St. Petersburg, crowned with a gilded angel holding a cross—now one of the city’s most iconic images.
Inside the cathedral, beneath glittering chandeliers and intricately carved iconostases, lie the tombs of nearly all Russian emperors and empresses from Peter the Great to Nicholas II. The remains of Nicholas II and his family, executed in 1918 by Bolsheviks, were reinterred here in 1998 after being discovered and identified through DNA testing. The Romanov chapel within the cathedral is a solemn and moving place—one of both mourning and historical closure.
Daily Noon Cannon: A Living Tradition
Every day at exactly 12:00 noon, a cannon is fired from the Naryshkin Bastion of the fortress—a tradition that dates back to the mid-19th century, initially intended to signal time to the city’s residents. Today, the blast is a ceremonial reminder of St. Petersburg’s military past and draws tourists and locals alike to witness the echoing boom across the Neva.
Pro tip: Stand on the opposite embankment for a great photo op and a slightly less deafening experience.
Museums, Exhibitions, and More
Beyond the cathedral and prison, the Peter and Paul Fortress is also home to several fascinating museums and institutions:
1. Museum of the History of St. Petersburg
Located within the Commandant’s House, this museum offers a detailed, well-curated look at the city’s evolution from swamp to imperial capital to Soviet metropolis.
2. Boat House and Mint
The fortress once housed a working Imperial Mint, which printed coins and medals. Today, the exhibit covers the economic history of the Russian Empire.
3. Space Exploration Exhibit
One of the fortress buildings houses an engaging exhibit on Soviet space exploration, including models of spacecraft and personal items belonging to Yuri Gagarin.
4. Temporary Exhibitions and Art Installations
There’s always something new on display—ranging from classical art to contemporary Russian photography and sculpture.
What to Do Around the Fortress
- Stroll the fortress walls for panoramic views of the Neva River and central St. Petersburg. The views are particularly stunning at sunset or during the famous White Nights in June and July.
- Visit the beach just outside the fortress walls. Yes, there’s a sandy stretch of riverbank where locals sunbathe in summer.
- Take a boat tour from the nearby embankment to see the fortress from the water—a perspective that truly reveals its star-shaped layout.
Practical Info for Visitors
- Location: Zayachy Island, across from the Winter Palace and Admiralty.
- Metro Access: Gorkovskaya Station (Blue Line), a 5-minute walk away.
- Opening Hours: The grounds are open daily, but individual buildings (cathedral, museums, bastions) may have varying schedules—check ahead.
- Ticket Price: General entry to the grounds is free. Cathedral, Trubetskoy Bastion, and museums require tickets (combo passes available).
- Guided Tours: Highly recommended for deeper historical context—many are offered in English.
The Peter and Paul Fortress is not just an old military structure—it’s a complex symbol of Russia’s imperial dreams, its darkest repressions, and its attempts at national rebirth. It’s where the Tsars began, and in some sense, where they ended. It’s a prison, a cathedral, a museum, a symbol of victory, and a monument to suffering—all contained within one star-shaped island.
